What is that Yasmin girl up to?

plus, lots of love for Menorca

Many have asked me, What exactly is your living situation right now?

My answer usually comes out something along the lines of, I’m sort of temporarily living on this lovely little island as I work up the courage to move here. All of this is true, as I would love to live here for at least half the year, if not more, because it feels more like home than anywhere else I’ve lived, which sounds a bit nuts, I know (TBD where I am the rest of the year). Both this summer and last, I’ve bounced around various Airbnbs in Menorca, working remotely—last year on writing my cookbook, this year on editing it and developing new NYT recipes (thank you to my editor for letting me work from here!). It always feels partly like a vacation, maybe because it is a break from my ‘real life,’ whatever that means, but also because I’m so happy here, it doesn’t quite feel real or that life can feel this way. Last year I was here for about seven weeks, this year it will be about five, and it always feels far too few.

Many people here often ask me how I ended up on this island or why this island in particular, and again I don’t have a great answer as I’m not from here, have no family or long-term friends here or even a job/boyfriend/what-have-you rooting me here. Something called me to this Balearic island, and I fell in love with it when I first visited in September of 2021, and I haven’t been able to shake it ever since. Obviously, it’s a beautiful, idyllic island in the Mediterranean, so it’s not like I’ve discovered this unknown world to man. And yes, swimming in the sea daily, with the warm yet cooling breeze on my skin, the birds fluttering about and chirping, the eagles circling overhead teaching their young to fly are all going to make for a lovely experience, but there’s something deeper here. I feel more myself, more connected and more creative than I do anywhere else.

You might visit and say, I get it, it’s beautiful, quiet with lots of pristine nature, but you might not feel as strongly as I do, and I think that’s probably because it’s more the way that I feel when I’m here than the things I’m listing. We all have our happy place or activity that makes us feel most like ourselves, stripped down of the guards and layers we often put up to protect ourselves, and feel this deeper, inexplicable connection to nature, ourselves or something.

so much of Menorca is protected (thankfully), which means it stays this beautiful and untouched

I’ve been really lucky to meet some lovely and interesting people last year and this year, who are so welcoming and kind, but, even when I don’t see anyone for a week, I don’t feel lonely, whereas I did in Miami a lot of the time. Maybe it is the lack of fomo or that I feel so embedded in nature, walking barefoot so often, exploring tiny trails to find teeny calas without another person in sight except the odd goat or two, spending most of my non-working time outside and active throughout the day, whether it’s swimming, walking or paddle boarding when the wind isn’t too strong. My days are simple, which might be part of it, too. I feel removed from the hustle and bustle, even though I’ve been busier here than I intended. 

There’s a slower pace, which I love, and a general kindness and trust between people. For example, one of the homes I rented was from this lovely Italian family who also owned another property nearby. They were on the island, too, and invited me to come out on their boat—we had never met, just messaged. I impulsively said yes because that sounds so fun, and then later had paranoid thoughts of, are they going to murder me and dump me in the sea? Is this a scam to rob the apartment while I’m gone? Crazy thoughts that I’m both embarrassed and mortified to admit to, but ones that are likely shaped by many years living in large cities. They did none of those things. Instead we boated to a beach in the south with sparkling turquoise waters, anchored to swim, enjoy some wine and an array of snacks that they brought. They were so exceptionally kind and welcoming, worrying that I was here alone without family and telling me to call them should anything go wrong, that I left feeling so taken care of by people I just met. It’s making me remember the inherent goodness and kindness in people.

And the food!! You might have seen me post excessively about the tomatoes, the cheese, bread and so on (did I mention the fruit, olive oil and salt from here?!). But it’s a treat to be able to cook with such quality ingredients. I love watching the market change as the season progresses: little red strawberries when I first arrived, now replaced with crates of stone fruits like apricots, nectarines and peaches. It’s a small but nice way to mark the passing of time and speaks to the simple pleasures here: watching a sunset, feeling the cool morning breeze with its sweet scent or just going for a walk by the water, watching it lap up against the rocks. Maybe this sounds terribly boring to you, and it might have to me once, but now it feels fulfilling and lovely.

I feel nervous about moving here though not only because I need to work out the logistics but also because I’m scared it won’t be like this when I actually live here. Is it just escapism? I don’t think so, as I’ve gone through quite a fair share of issues (loud construction, gas leaks, minor flooding, wind storms, my first jellyfish sting–no, I did not pee on myself and was fine–what I think were flying cockroaches (?), ants and so on) that it hasn’t been perfect. It also feels against the grain, even though this behavior tracks for me, as I’ve never been one to stay in a place for very long and have always loved to travel and move around. This doesn’t mean I’m not filled with worry and anxiety before I make these changes, it’s just that I know deep down I need to make them. But, for once, I actually want to set down roots here, which I have never felt the urge to do anywhere before. It’s the only place I’ve been where I tell rocks that I think they are beautiful, along with the sky, water, flowers and pretty much every turtle, cow, goat or donkey that I see. Thankfully I’m usually alone so no one else hears me talking to myself. Except when they do, and then it’s awkward. 

cuties

Some recommendations….

While I love it and feel strangely protective of it even though I’m not from here, I’m not going to share the special, quiet places close to my heart that I’ve visited by walking through uncomfortable and scratchy trails or through tips that locals have shared with me as that’s part of the charm and work in getting to know a place—finding them for yourself. If I shared, and others publicly shared on a ‘best of’ list, well, then they wouldn’t stay private or special for very long. I also don’t feel like they are mine to share as it’s not my island, no matter how much I love it. Happy exploring!

Here are the big and medium hits of the island that are beautiful:

Ciutadella: My absolute favorite. Charming, beautiful and full of great shops and places to eat. Ulisses is a restaurant I love as you can sit outside and watch the market that takes places on Wednesday and Saturday, and it’s right by the fish market. Ca Na Riera in that same area also has lots of local olive oils, cheeses, salts and so on where you can buy things to take home or enjoy while on the island.

Paddle tour Menorca: Lluis is great, definitely go with him to Cala Blanca to see the southern waters (and you can have a drink after at Hola Ola) and a sunset paddle in Cala Morell, where you get to enjoy a beer and watch the sun dip below the water after you paddle to little caves. A truly magical way to spend an evening.

S’ent Silla: I buy many of my clothes from here as Su has great taste and is so lovely, please tell her I say hi!

Ses Orenetes: A beautiful home store with lots of big and little things to take home with you for your kitchen. (Isabel is also lovely!)

Sa Gelateria: Great for a scoop, cone or to take a pint home, and there’s also a spot in the corner of the market, across from the fish market, I’m blanking on the name, but excellent gelato, both made with many local Menorcan ingredients.

Beaches: I love the north for its wildness, but the south will probably capture your eye because of its clear, stunning waters. Parking can be tricky during the busy months and many of the best ones require long walks to get there, so going by boat/kayak or paddle can be easier. I’ve clumped together spots and vaguely designated them north and south, so look them up on a map first!

North-ish: Cala Pilar; Cavalleria, Cala Pregonda, Cala Morell (some restaurants there to eat, too) and La Vall. Fornells is a cute town to walk around and on the water, lots of restaurants and shops.

Moli d’es Raco: A restaurant in Es Mercadel, kind of in the middle, so a good stopping point if you’re driving north or south.

Sa Figuera: A shop in Es Mercadel and Fornells that also sells lots of local products.

South-ish: Cala Mitjana, Cala Turqueta, Alcaufar is also cute with a little restaurant there by the water. Es Castell is a cute town to walk around for dinner at night, just outside of Mahon.

Binifadet: A winery with a restaurant that’s beautiful to sit outside and enjoy some wine and food. A lovely way to spend an afternoon.

Cap Roig + Sa Mesquida: Cap Roig is a restaurant right over the water and near Sa Mesquida, both are close to Mahon. There’s also a nice ice cream stand in Sa Mesquida.

Gin Xorigeur: A gin that’s almost entirely made here in Menorca! Everything but the juniper berries that come from mainland Spain. You can visit them in Mahon, which is where it’s all made, and shipped all over (it’s very good, too). I did a tour last year when I was here and loved it. You’ll also find wine, vermut and other types of gin made here.

Cami de Cavalls is a path that encircles the coastline of the island (I think it was a former horse trail?)—you’ll often see hikers or horses going along it, and, if you’re heading to some beaches, you’ll probably walk on parts of it.

There’s a lot of history on this island, too. I find that I learn more about it on each visit and am more impressed than I was before. If you go, please give it a big hug and kiss for me, be kind to it and don’t litter, please! Thank you!

There’s no recipe today, but I am always here to encourage you to eat lots of sliced tomatoes sprinkled with good quality salt and a drizzle of your nice olive oil, along with some good bread and cheese. It’s something I grew up eating almost every weekend with my dad, and something that is so satisfying and delicious.

Enjoy! xx